3 Drawer Dresser or Baby Changing Table

Step 1

Start by attaching the sides to the top. I definitely recommend 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws here - the joint is just so much better and is hidden and so much easier to make - and since this project doesn't have a face frame, it will help keep the project square. If you are cutting out the base, take a second to jigsaw the sides out now. NOTE: For a stained finish, you will want to add edge banding to the front edges of the sides before assembly.

Step 2

Then add the front and back supports along the base. We could have done a bottom shelf instead, but that adds a ton of weight and extra material, so I went this route with the plans.

Step 3

Now attach the top trim - this one just adds a little decoration and a little extra support on top.

Step 4

These guys go between the drawers so when you look at the project from the front, there's no air gaps in between. Also, they hold the drawers in place when installed.

Build the drawer boxes and install - here is a video tutorial showing how

Step 6

Drawers need to be installed inset 3/4" to allow for the drawer face, installed in the lowest possible position above the 1x2s. Use a square to help you install the cabinet members.

Step 7

Attach drawer faced to fronts of drawers, allowing for a 1/4" gap in between drawers. You can use a nailer and 1-1/4" finish nails to attach, then open the drawer and add a few screws from the inside. Another tip is to install the knobs first so you don't have to drill through double thickness for the drawer fronts (as most knobs only have a bolt designed for 3/4" thick drawer faces). Dress the drawers up with trim or moulding if desired.

Step 8

The back could have been installed at any time, but I like to leave it off until after the drawers are installed just to make reaching inside easier. The down side is the back does help keep the project square - so if your project is not square, it may make sense to put the back on earlier (around step 3).

Step 9

Trim the top and bottom edges out to add interest and cover exposed plywood edges on bottom. If you are using a shaped moulding, you will need miter the corners.

Step 10

The topper is a piece of cake! Changing pads can vary in length, so make sure you build to suit your topper.

Finishing

Sand all surfaces, starting with a medium grit and finishing with fine. Wipe off the dust, fill any holes or gaps with wood filler, and sand smooth once dry. Apply primer if you're painting, then finish with your choice of paint or stain and seal with a durable clear topcoat. For outdoor projects, use exterior-rated primer, paint or stain, and sealer so the piece stands up to the weather.