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Chelsea Top Bunk

Top bunk for the Chelsea Bunk System. This bunk is designed to work with a desk system and a bookshelf, creating a bunk bed system with storage. The bottom bunk sits perpendicular to the top. The little details make this bunk a touch more girly, but just as strong, and even easier to build. Features optional full guardrails.

Chelsea Top Bunk

Specifications

Project typeBunk Bed
RoomBedroom
StyleChildren's and Kid's Room Furniture and Toy Plans
DifficultyIntermediate
Estimated cost$50 - $100

Dimensions

Use the size-specific shopping and cut lists below.

Chelsea Top Bunk dimension diagram 1

Shopping List

1 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long or stud length

2 - 1x6 @ 10 feet long

3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

1/2 sheet - 3/4" plywood, particle board or MDF

11 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long (used for slats and guardrails - adjust the amount you buy to your needs)

Cut List

2 - 2x6 @ 39" (Headers - cut out in step 1)

2 - 3/4" plywood, particle board or MDF @ 17 1/2" x 39" (panels)

2 - 1x6 @ 39" (Panel Bases)

4 - 2x2 @ 21" (Legs)

2 - 1x6 @ 75" (Siderails)

2 - 2x2 @ 75" (Cleats)

14 - 1x3 @ 39" (Slats)

Guardrails

2 - 1x3 @ 75" (long guardrails)

2 - 1x3 @ 62" (you may wish to make these shorter)

5 - 1x3 @ 17 1/2"

10 - scrap 1x3s to fill gaps

Tools

  • measuring tape
  • square
  • pencil
  • hearing protection
  • kreg-jig
  • drill
  • circular saw
  • jigsaw
  • nailer
  • sander
  • level
  • countersink drill bit

Step-by-step Instructions

1

Mark the headers as shown above and carefully cut out with a jigsaw. Sand cut edges.

I know it's not easy to cut 1 1/2" thick stock with a jigsaw - practice, take your time, give yourself room to make errors. You will need to cut two of these. Once you have both headers cut, clamp together, and sand the top edges until both match perfect. Start with coarse sandpaper and work your way down to medium grit.

Chelsea Top Bunk — step 1
2

Step 2

On the panel, if you are using the Kreg Jig, you will want to drill all pocket holes before assembly. If you do not have a pocket hole jig, what you can do is use the 2x2 legs to screw the header in place, and attach the header to the panel with glue and clamps. You will need to attach the headers to both panels as shown above.

Chelsea Top Bunk — step 2
3

Step 3

Now attach the base trim to the panels on the outsides as shown above. Use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

Chelsea Top Bunk — step 3
4

Step 4

This is what I was referring to in step 2 - if you do not have a pocket hole jig, you can screw through the legs into the header with 3" screws (predrilled with a countersink bit) and this will keep the header in place. You will need to apply ample glue along the bottom edge of the header if you take this route. Attach the legs to the panel. Use either countersunk screws from the outsides of legs, or pocket holes drilled in step 2.

Chelsea Top Bunk — step 4
5

Step 5

Chelsea Top Bunk — step 5
6

Step 6

Guardrails. Guardrails are super easy, the tricky part is building them square. Start by attaching the guardrail boards to the guardrail legs with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue or screws. Adjust for square. Then fill in any gaps with scrap 1x3s.

Chelsea Top Bunk — step 6
7

Step 7

Cleats. Attach cleats flush to the bottom with 2" screws and glue. Place screws every 6-10" apart.

Chelsea Top Bunk — step 7
8

Step 8

If you are not using a bunkie board, lay slats on cleats and screw down.

Chelsea Top Bunk — step 8
9

Step 9

From the underside of the bunk, screw the bunk to the bookshelf or desk as shown above.

Chelsea Top Bunk — step 9
10

Finishing

Sand all surfaces, starting with a medium grit and finishing with fine. Wipe off the dust, fill any holes or gaps with wood filler, and sand smooth once dry. Apply primer if you're painting, then finish with your choice of paint or stain and seal with a durable clear topcoat. For outdoor projects, use exterior-rated primer, paint or stain, and sealer so the piece stands up to the weather.

Source (temporary): https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/chelsea-top-bunk