Full Size Slatted Headboard

Step 1

Sand all edges now that will exposed later and leave the matings edges as square as you can. In this plan that means sand the the sides of all the boards except for the pieces for the posts & panels, which would be sanded after they are assembled. Glue, clamp and screw the post together using (3) 3" x 3/4" x 48" boards. Countersinking isn't necessary since the screws will be on the back. Keep the sides aligned to be flush with each other, but don't worry too much about the tops or bottoms. Once glued, saw a little off each post so that the board are level and the same height. I used 3x3(ish)wide and 4' tall posts. (Alternatively you can cut 56" long posts to be more like the standard. You would also want to increase the length of the slats and add in another paneling to make up for the extra height)

Step 2

Either use a pocket jig or (4) metal L-brackets to frame the panel. Take care to keep the unmarred side flush and the frame square.

Step 3

Screw the paneling to the frame and glue in between the panels. Be sure to wipe off the excess glue on the front side before it dries. Placing some 1/2" scrap wood under the frame will help keep the panels level. Use the brads in between screws. (If you have a flat area to work, it may be easier to glue the panel separately... I didn't though.) A support may be placed screwed to center/back to keep the panels aligned. Take care not to screw through to the front of the thin paneling. (Using the thicker 1/2" wood here would make this part easier, as you could use use a pocket jig, but depending on the wood, could up the cost considerably)

Step 4

Glue down the slats to the frame and the top crossbar. I lined up the top and middle crossbars together and used a quick-square to draw a line straight across both to align the slats. Again, take care to keep the sides square and flush. If you're worried about wood expansion, wait to fasten the slats. If you're not, then a couple nails will help hold the boards in place.

Step 5

Step 6

Screw/glue the 3 cross supports in. The wood on the sides of the panel is optional, but again, gives you something else to fasten into. Screw the already glued slats in. For those accounting for wood expansion, use only 1 screw in the center of the top/bottom of each slat. To save money you can buy only 5 crossbars, as noted, and use scrap pieces for the lowest crossbar.

Step 7

Predrill the holes and countersink, to about half of the post's width. You will want to put in some wood plugs later, since the screws on the side will be showing. Screw & glue the posts on. Keep the back side of the posts flush with the back side of the crossbars. I made 5 pocket holes on the back to screw on the top board. If you can't make pocket holes you could also countersink a couple screws from the top, nail some finishing nails in between and fill the holes later.

Step 8

Now plug your holes, make sure everything is sanded to your liking and brush off the dust. Finish as desired!

Finishing

Sand all surfaces, starting with a medium grit and finishing with fine. Wipe off the dust, fill any holes or gaps with wood filler, and sand smooth once dry. Apply primer if you're painting, then finish with your choice of paint or stain and seal with a durable clear topcoat. For outdoor projects, use exterior-rated primer, paint or stain, and sealer so the piece stands up to the weather.