Kitchen Cabinet Sink Base 36 Full Overlay Face Frame

Step 1

Please read this post before beginning any cabinet construction. It talks about general building techniques, how to modify, and other good stuff about cabinet building! Build the base as shown in diagram. Plan ahead and drill pocket holes to attach base to underside of cabinet in later steps. Once base is built, set aside. Note that base is 1/2" less in width than cabinet to account for face frame overhang.

Step 2

Build the carcase as shown in diagram. Make sure you also drill 3/4" pocket holes along front edges for attaching face frames in later steps.

Step 3

We used scrap plywood strip for the back supports, but 1x3 or 1x4 boards can also be used. These supports add a ton of strength to the cabinet - especially since this is a sink base and is backless.

Step 4

The trick to face frames is clamping each joint, marking each joint, and having a flat level surface. Use glue and build with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. NOTE: If your face frames are hardwood - recommended if you are attaching hinges to the face frame - then use fine threaded pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Step 6

These guys are for attaching the top plywood when all your cabinets are in place to support the countertop. They also provide corner support, keeping your cabinets square. We used scrap plywood pieces, but 1x3 or 1x4 boards would do the trick too.

Step 7

Once the carcase has been built, attach the base, flush to back and sides.

Step 8

We found the most time consuming part of building the cabinets was the doors. Here's the measurements but I'm going to save door construction for another post - so we can use the same building techniques regardless of the door size. The drawer face is of course just a 1x8 ripped down to size.

Step 9

An alternative is to use a door building service. Because doors take such high abuse and are more likely to warp, could be a good idea to look into ordering doors unfinished. Doors also require more tools and know-how, and are the part that you see on your cabinets. They are also cheap to ship. The cabinet box cost us about $50 to build. Ordering two doors will put us up to $90 - not bad for PureBond 3/4" plywood cabinets, built with glue and screws! Very reasonable, especially if you are planning lots of open cabinetry up top (no doors = less $$$$). PS - Barker door has no idea who I am, they just are the least expensive door option I've found online. I have never used them or worked with them but we are considering ordering doors from them for the second kitchen for fancier drawers and doors. Would love to hear your thoughts on ordering doors!

Finishing

Sand all surfaces, starting with a medium grit and finishing with fine. Wipe off the dust, fill any holes or gaps with wood filler, and sand smooth once dry. Apply primer if you're painting, then finish with your choice of paint or stain and seal with a durable clear topcoat. For outdoor projects, use exterior-rated primer, paint or stain, and sealer so the piece stands up to the weather.