Rustic Modern Farmhouse Dresser Console
Stunning dresser diy using whitewood boards, features four big drawers and a modern design. to build your own rustic modern farmhouse dresser by RELATED: for matching bed and matching nightstands

Specifications
| Project type | Dresser Plans |
|---|---|
| Room | Storage Solutions |
| Difficulty | Advanced |
Dimensions
Use the size-specific shopping and cut lists below.

Shopping List
- 5 - 1X8 @ 8 feet long
- 4 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
- 1 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
- 1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
- 5 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
- 1 - 2x4 @ 12 feet long
- 1 - 1/4" plywood panel, 48" x 48"
- 4 - 16" white euro style drawer slides
- 100 - 1-1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
- 10 - 2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
- 1-1/4" and 5/8" Brad Nails
- medium and fine grit sandpaper
- Stain and clear poly
Cut List
1x8s are expected with of 7-1/4". If width varies, this will complicate plans and adjustments will need to be made.
Top
- 9 - 1x8 @ 16"
- 3 - 1x4 @ 16"
- 2 - 1x2 @ 65-1/4" - measure and cut to fit
Frame
- 4 - 1x8 @ 24-1/2" - side panels
- 5 - 2x4 @ 28-1/2" - legs
- 3 - 1x2 @ 63-3/4" - frame rails
- 1 - 1x3 @ 63-3/4" - middle frame rail
- 1 - 1x4 @ 24-1/2" - front middle leg
- 4 - 1x2 @ 9-1/2" - back blocking
- 2 - 1x4 @ 9-1/2" - front blocking
Drawers
- 8 - 1x6 @ 16" - drawer sides
- 8 - 1x6 @ about 28-3/8" - drawer front and back
- 4 - 1/4" plywood @ 16" x about 29-7/8" - drawer bottoms
- 16 - 1x8 @ 11-1/4" - drawer faces
Tools
- measuring tape
- square
- pencil
- safety glasses
- kreg-jig
- drill
- circular saw
- compound miter saw
- nailer
- sander
Step-by-step Instructions
Top
Cut the top boards. It is best to set up a stop block and use a miter saw to cut, so the pieces are all exactly the same length. Then drill 3/4" pocket holes on all but one of the top pieces. Attach together, clamping each joint, with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Top Trim
Measure and cut 1x2 to fit the front and back edges. Attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Top Filler Pieces
Cut 1x4 boards to match the tabletop cuts and attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Side Panels
Cut the 1x8 side panels. Join together along center with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Then drill 3/4" pocket holes along the sides and top for attaching to legs and top in next steps. Build two identical.

Sides
Set pocket hole jig up for 1-1/2" pocket holes. Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on tops of the legs. Keep pocket hole held in 1" on the inside leg, so it is not covered up by the 1x8 side panel. Now attach the 1x8 side panels to the legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The two leg sets are built in mirror, with the pocket holes in the legs facing backward, and the pocket holes in the center panel hidden to the inside.

Attaching Legs to Top
Attach the legs sets to the top using 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. If there is any difference in width, attach so the front is perfectly aligned and any difference is left at the back where it isn't noticeable.

Inner Framing Rails
Adjust the project for square by taking opposite diagonals - before this step, the legs have to be square (not a parallelogram or trapazoid) to the top. Attach the inner framing pieces to the 2x4 legs with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails. Maintain distances in between and double check for square.

Center legs
The center legs will be used for attaching the drawer slides, so it is very important they are installed square to the project. Measure carefully and attach. The front middle leg is a 1x4. The back leg is a 2x4.

Back Blocking for Drawers
Cut blocking from 1x2s and attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue to the inside of the back of the dresser.

Front Drawer Blocking
Attach 1x4 blocking to fill in the front "leg" with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Drawer Boxes
Drawer sides: 16" long Drawer front and back: Measure the opening width (distance between the red boards in the diagram) and subtract 2-1/2" - should be about 28-3/8". Measure each opening individually. Cut the drawer front and backs. Drawer Bottom: 16" x opening MINUS 1" Cut the pieces and build the drawer boxes. You can use pocket holes or 1-1/4" brad nails. Attach bottom with 5/8" brad nails and glue. Install the drawer slides, so the front of the drawer slide is flush to the front of the "red" blocking boards in the diagram. I installed my slides with about 1/2" gap under the slide, to make sure the drawer doesn't rub on the framing pieces. Please watch the nightstand video here as the process is almost identical.

Drawer Faces
Cut the drawer faces and join together with pocket holes. Then carefully attach to the drawer boxes with 1-1/4" brad nails. Further secure from inside with 1-1/4" screws (I used pocket hole screws). This step is not easy to get perfect. Another person holding the drawer faces will help. OPTION: Use 1x12s for the drawer faces instead of the 1x8s - it will be a different look but will save quite a few steps.

Finishing
Sand all surfaces, starting with a medium grit and finishing with fine. Wipe off the dust, fill any holes or gaps with wood filler, and sand smooth once dry. Apply primer if you're painting, then finish with your choice of paint or stain and seal with a durable clear topcoat. For outdoor projects, use exterior-rated primer, paint or stain, and sealer so the piece stands up to the weather.
Source (temporary): https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/rustic-modern-farmhouse-dresser-console