Rustic X DIY Changing Table
Hi, I'm Jamison aka The Rogue Engineer. With a new baby on the way the list of projects can seem to be endless. One that was at the top of the list was a DIY changing table. My inspiration for this DIY changing table came from the Pottery Barn Belmont buffet and if you want to build that take a look at ’s plans for it. Below I have provided detailed baby changing table woodworking plans for you to enjoy.

Specifications
| Project type | Console Table Plans |
|---|---|
| Room | Kids and Toys |
| Style | Farmhouse Furniture |
| Difficulty | Beginner Projects |
| Estimated cost | $50 - $100 |
Shopping List
1x 1 x 4 x 8′
1x 1 x 4 x 6′
4x 2 x 2 x 8′
3x 2 x 3 x 8′
5x 2 x 6 x 8′
1x 1/4 x 24 x 48″ plywood (I went with sandply)
Tools
- measuring tape
- square
- pencil
- safety glasses
- hearing protection
- kreg-jig
- drill
- compound miter saw
- sander
- level
Step-by-step Instructions
Step 1
Drill pocket holes in each end of the 15in 2×2′s. Next, screw and glue them to the 31.5in 2×3′s as shown in the picture. Remember, we need two of these. Note: Know that the pocket holes will be on the inside of the changing table, therefore, you should choose the uglier sides of your wood to be on this side.

Step 2
Attach the longer angled 2×2 with 2″ wood screws from the top and the bottom as shown. Make sure to glue these joints as well.

Step 3
Screw and glue the smaller angled 2×2 in the upper right position with 2″ wood screws. As shown, place the lower screw slightly off from center and at an angle of the 2×2. (As you can see in the next step we will be coming right behind it with a pocket hole screw.)

Step 4
Using the Kreg jig, drill a pocket hole in the remaining smaller angled 2×2′s as shown in the picture. (Make sure you pocket hole is in the correct side) Screw and glue the lower slat of the X in with one 2″ wood screw and one 2-1/2″ pocket hole screw, as shown.

Step 5

Step 6
Drill pocket holes, evenly spaced, in the three 44 inch 2×6′s as shown in the picture. You should choose the uglier sides of your wood to be on this side. Clamp to maintain a flat surface and screw and glue the three 2×6′s and two 2×2′s together, as shown, with 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. I suggest giving this another sanding to smooth the top once assembled.

Step 7
Drill pocket holes, evenly spaced, in the three 44 inch 2×6′s as shown in the picture. You should choose the uglier sides of your wood to be on this side. Clamp to maintain a flat surface and screw and glue the three 2×6′s, sandwiched between the 2×2 and the 2×3, as shown, with 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. I suggest giving this another sanding to smooth the top once assembled.

Step 8
Drill the pocket holes, as shown in the shelves and upper rails. Make sure to notice that the middle shelf has three pocket holes, one at each end and one at the middle of the X (this is not the center). Make sure the back of the shelves are flush with the back of the side first and mark where your pocket holes should go. With the top rails flush with the outside top corners of the side panels, attach with 2″ pocket hole screws as shown. Assure that your shelves are square and attach with 2″ pocket hole screws as shown.

Step 9
With the top rails flush with the outside top corners of the side panels, attach with 2″ pocket hole screws as shown. Assure that your shelves are square and attach with 2″ pocket hole screws as shown.

Step 10
Finish off your table by adding the top. To do so you should drill four pocket holes in the back rail (2×3), as shown. Attach the top with four 2″ pocket hole screws in the back rail and 2″ wood screws through the 2×2′s as designated by the arrows in the picture.

Step 11
Cut your 1/4″ plywood to 24×45.5″ and nail or screw it to the back as shown in the photo. It is wise to draw a line across the back to show you where to nail. Note: I used a finishing nailer for this with 1-1/4″ brads but if you don’t have a nailer you can just as well use screws. (They’ll be on the back anyway. Just don’t mess up:) )

Step 12
Drill your pocket holes at each end of the 1x4x17″ boards. (Make sure to adjust your jig for 1″ material). Make sure to place your pocket holes where they will be the best concealed. The two boards on the right in the picture should actually have the holes on the opposite side (But I can’t show that now can I?). Assemble your topper as shown with 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, making sure to glue the joints. Important Note: If your going to stain the top like we did then now is a good time to do so. Make sure to stain both the top and the topper prior to installing the topper.

Step 13
Drill the pocket holes as shown, except for the right hand board, those should be on the opposite side to best conceal them. Attach the topper with with 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step 14
Complete

Finishing
Sand all surfaces, starting with a medium grit and finishing with fine. Wipe off the dust, fill any holes or gaps with wood filler, and sand smooth once dry. Apply primer if you're painting, then finish with your choice of paint or stain and seal with a durable clear topcoat. For outdoor projects, use exterior-rated primer, paint or stain, and sealer so the piece stands up to the weather.
Source (temporary): https://www.ana-white.com/woodworking-projects/rustic-x-diy-changing-table